Thinking Man's Corner

Article by: William G

What is the purpose of this? Off Duty Carry, Undercover, Dignitary Protection, Plain Clothes Assignment? Are you in your jurisdiction? Are you truly concealing your gun, or are you just covering it?

Dressing around the gun?

This has been the typical advice you hear in certain circles. It has some merit, but it is much more involved than just that simple statement. It assumes that the end user has all the knowledge they need to understand it. Simply throwing on a Safariland ALS on a floppy nylon belt, under an untucked shirt will not hide the gun from anyone with any kind of basic vision.

When carrying concealed you need an actual system. A belt that supports the weight of the gun, a properly designed holster, and correctly fitting garments. Those three things must be in place to actually conceal a gun. The gun itself, does play a part in this, but you can conceal a Glock 17 or a 1911 pretty easily with the right accessories.

Different Clothing Types

For most instances we have a closed front and open front shirt/jacket/vest. The closed front generally requires you to pull the garment up to access the gun in the fastest manner (appendix, hip, cross draw, and an upside down shoulder holster). The open front allows you to sweep the garment to the rear, or snake you hand underneath it (cross draw and shoulder holster).

If you carry your gun inside the waistband, you may need one size larger pants (If you wear a 34 waist comfortably, you may need a 36 waist pant to comfortably conceal an inside the waistband holster.) Conversely, you may not need a larger side pant if you carry appendix.

The same goes for shirts or sweaters, especially if you wear them in a closed configuration (polo style shirt, etc.). Those tend to conceal the gun better when they are one size larger than you normally wear.

If you pocket carry, make sure the pockets are deep and loose enough to conceal the gun. With a pocket holster, you may not be able to completely close your hand around the gun, and draw it smoothly. Some pants/gun/pocket holster combos will trap the gun in the pants when the fist is balled around it, so check that out prior to venturing about in the world.

If you ankle carry, check to make sure the pant legs are loose enough the bottom hem does not catch on the bottom of the holster. Also, it must be loose enough the gun does not bulge out, drawing attention to you.

Jeans that have some percentage of stretch fabric allow for more comfortable carry, and are somewhat more durable than conventional blue jeans. Cargo pants are much more en vogue than in the early days of Royal Robbins, but certain types still scream PO-LICE. Plaid shirts, or shirts with some type of pattern or bright design on the chest, draw attention away from the waistband. All of these things do matter, as criminals are much more observant than they are typically given credit for. Anything that helps you blend in is an asset. So, use your observation skills when out and about to see what the current trends in clothing are. IF any are agreeable to you, lean toward those to blend in. Same goes if you are headed to a different part of the country. Try not to look out of place if possible. Carrying concealed does require a little bit of work to be comfortable and effective, but you do not necessarily have to replace your entire wardrobe.

A proper belt is the foundation of the system.

Most pant loops are 1.5 – 1 ¾” in width. Some dress or suit pants have 1 ¼” loops, so be forewarned. My preference is the 1.5” belt, as it will fit most all pants I wear, with the exception of tailored Brioni trousers. Also, most belt makers have the 1.5” models in stock, and in certain versions they do not look as much like an obvious gun belt.

Back in the day, you wanted a double thick, leather belt, specifically made to carry a gun. That is still not a bad idea. However, we have new materials and technology, so you are not restricted just to that. You do still need a belt made for carrying a gun. For leather you can get a good gun belt from Milt Sparks, Kramer, Mitch Rosen, Galco, Beltman (to name some of the really great ones). For nylon, take a look at the Wilderness Tactical (they are one of, if not the first to produce that style of “Instructor Belt,” and are still my favorite.) A new option is the NexBelt, but make sure it is part of the gun belt series (these have a plastic insert in them to help support the weight of the gun and other accoutrements). Finally, a very innovative belt is made by the EDC Belt Company (it is owned by a recently retired Police Officer, and is very intelligently designed, and a great choice).

The right holster for your gun and body type.

Since everyone has a different body, there are different options that work better for some or others. Keep in mind that with the holster makers I recommend, you can choose what belt loop width you want. Choose the same width as your belt. Avoid the temptation of getting the largest belt loop width offered so that it will work with several width belts. The holster loops need to be the same size as your specific belt to aid in comfort and concealment. Remember that anything that does more than one thing, doesn’t do anything really well. Finally, make sure that the holster is specifically made and fitted for your gun – avoid generic, multi fit holsters as they do not retain the guns well, and can impede your draw. I will break them down as best I can below, in no particular order:

AIWB (Appendix Inside the Waistband) – This is carried between the belly button and forward of the hip. It works best for skinny to slightly overweight people (though there are some hoss’s out there that swear by it – I am not one of those, and find it uncomfortable). It is important with all holsters, but imperative with AIWB, that the mouth of the holster is rigid enough that it stays open when the gun is removed. The holster itself should be of rigid construction, especially around the trigger guard. Kydex works very well for that requirement, but a good quality, thick leather can work as well. Some manufacturers, such as Keeper’s Concealment, are designed from the start for AIWB and have things that make them more comfortable (such as foam wedges). One thing to note on AIWB is that they seem to work best with a medium size gun for most people. Too long of a gun pokes into the thigh, and too short of a gun puts leverage at the wrong area, and can push the frame away from the body more severely (which is where the Keeper’s with the wedge assists). While being aware of your muzzle, and keeping your finger off the trigger until your gun is indexed on target and you are ready to fire are always important, they are considerably more so with AIWB.

IWB (Inside the Waistband) – This is the classic choice of most of the cognoscenti. It allows you to wear a shorter cover garment, while still concealing the muzzle completely. It still requires a proper design to tuck the butt of the gun into the side, as that is actually the hardest part to conceal. Like the AIWB, it requires a rigid mouth band to give you the most benefit. While there are plenty of kydex holsters on the market, I find the most comfortable to be leather. Some of the best I have ever used are: Milt Sparks (Criterion, VMII, and Summer Special), Kramer (IWB #3 and Thomas Perfectionist), Sam Andrews (McDaniel), and Mitch Rosen (ARG).

OWB (Outside the Waistband) – This is generally carried on the strongside somewhere about center of the hip bone to just in front of, or on, the kidney. The pancake style of this holster has belt loops fore and aft. (Kramer’s belt scabbard is the most concealable model I have found, and even though it does not have a reinforced mouth, the leather is so rigid that it does not require one.) The other most prolific OWB style is often called an Avenger (designed by Col. Charles Askins), and has a belt loop centered behind the gun, and one aft. The Avenger style tends to be less concealable than the pancake, but offers a faster draw in many cases. The cant of the holster is important here, in that the further forward you wear it, the more vertical you want it; if worn further to the rear, the more muzzle-rear rake (known as the FBI cant) is required.

Crossdraw – Generally this is an OWB type, but can be IWB or AIWB as well. To get the most out of this type of holster, make sure that it cants the butt of the gun toward your belt buckle instead of holding it vertical. A company called Pocket Concealment Systems makes one of the neatest crossdraws I have ever used. Crossdraw has been used by a lot of OG gunmen, and is very well suited to those that stay seated a lot, or for your back up gun. If you have a gut on you, make sure your arms are long enough to reach your piece. It is most quickly accessed if you carry the gun somewhere in the grey area of just forward of the hip, but not quite appendix.

Pocket – If you carry a gun in your pocket, it needs to be in a holster – and do NOT carry keys, a flashlight, OC, change, or a knife in the same pocket. You need an unrestricted draw, and nothing that can work its way into the trigger of the gun. I prefer leather or soft synthetics for this, and do not like kydex. Most kydex does not break up the outline of the gun, and I find it uncomfortable. The holster needs to be of a construction that is tight enough to keep the gun from flopping out, but loose enough that it does not come out on the draw. The material should be thick enough that you cannot activate the trigger through it (test that with a triple checked unloaded gun). The ones I like are from the Wilderness Tactical, Simply Rugged Holsters; and are both called the “DB Force Option” from those makers. Mitch Rosen, Galco, and some other leather holsters have an added lip or corner on them to catch on the pocket to help retain the holster in the pocket when drawing, but you usually have to be deliberate about that.

Shoulder – These used to be an unwritten requirement when you got your gold shield (promoted to Detective). They still have a place, and if properly designed, can help somewhat for those with a bad back, or are seated for long periods of time. Most made today are horizontal, and point the muzzle at anything that gets behind you. They have special considerations required when drawing so as not to cover your bicep, and anything behind or to the side of you. They also are not the fastest to re-holster after you have drawn the gun, so that is something to keep in mind. Sam Andrews makes the Monarch, which has a horizontal strap across the back which keeps the gun from flopping out of your cover garment when bending forward. Galco also makes a good one called the “Original Jackass Rig,” which I prefer to their “Miami Classic.” Kramer and Mitch Rosen have versions that are well made and serviceable. My favorite is a Sam Andrews Spring Break holster. It is a vertical design, with a spring that surrounds the gun, and allows you to “break” the gun free of the holster by rotating the butt into your hand instead of having to pull up and out.

Ankle – I prefer to have a thumb break on my ankle holster, since I have had a gun come out of one while running, and seen it happen to others more often than I would like. The one exception is the Galco Ankle Glove for an air weight J frame (that is because the gun is light enough, and the side of the holster is fitted over the back cylinder of the revolver, which helps retain it, in conjunction with a tension screw). The back of the holster should have a wool or felt material for padding, and to help mitigate slippage. Mostly the strap around your leg is going to be neoprene or spandex on the better ones, and will Velcro closed. Be careful of wearing it too tight or too loose. The Rolls Royce of ankle holsters was the Alessi, but they are no longer made; though you may be able to find one on the used market. Galco, DeSantis, and the Wilderness Tactical all make good ankle rigs.

Magazine Pouches

A spare magazine is a smart idea. Not because you may run out of ammo, but because they are the highest wear item of your pistol. They can cause malfunctions that can only be fixed by inserting a new magazine, and you can also inadvertently drop your in-gun mag on the draw (I have seen it happen too many times to discount it). Carrying a spare mag is not that difficult weight wise, but can be for concealment; especially with all the double stack mags on the market today. Be wary of a cheap mag pouch that pokes out too far away from the body. While IWB holsters can be comfortable, I find IWB mag pouches not to be; but they are an option for some. There are lots of pouches that carry two magazines together. I have no issues with carrying two spare magazines, but find it more concealable to carry them in separate pouches. So, get two single mag pouches instead of one double mag pouch. Also, do not discount pocket mag pouches. The ones designed for the pocket keep the mag in the same position, keep debris out of the mag, and break up the outline somewhat. Blackhawk, DeSantis, and Galco all make some really good ones.

A tool or a talisman?

Are you carrying because it makes you feel better, or are you doing so because you believe that you may actually have to use the gun to defend your life or those of an innocent third party? Keep in mind that unless you practice, the skill you have with your full size gun will not translate over to a smaller one. So, you need to think about that when choosing what you will carry concealed. That is not to say that you cannot be proficient with a smaller gun, but a man has to know his limitations. Confidence is gained through pressure testing your skill and equipment on relevant courses and drills in front of peers with a greater skillset that hold you accountable. Don’t make the mistake of thinking you will be ok with a smaller gun. Test it on the range and KNOW what you can do when failure is not final. Having said that, you will not carry something that you are not comfortable with. There is no problem carrying an Officer’s Model if you normally carry a Government Model, or a G43 when you carry a G47, or a P365 when you carry a P320ca Pro. Nor is there a problem with you carrying a snub nose revolver concealed when your primary is a Beretta 92. That is, as long as you practice – just like you would practice with your primary gun. It all has to work together, and don’t lie to yourself about it – there is too much as stake if you mess up. My best advise is to pick a somewhat smaller gun than your primary, but still operates the same way. Such as a G47 on duty, then try a G19 for off duty, or a G48, G43X, a G43, or even a G42. Just make sure you can perform with it. Keep the trigger action and sights as close as possible to each other (an Acro P2 on the G47MOS, and BOLD sights on the G19, or XS sights on the G42 are not the same – though with the correct hybrid sighting technique the BOLD comes as close to a Dot as theoretically (and in practiced hands) as possible. You can throw a dot onto one of the smaller guns, but then you are limited in certain types of holsters, they are out there, you just have to hunt around, wait, and take a good chunk of that check going toward a new dive watch or those ostrich skin boots you had your eye on, and invest into the right holster. Do not settle for the lowest bidder when it comes to life saving emergency equipment – that is what your agency is there to do (most of them, not mine and a handful of other I know, but still.) The noblest of all professions is the Fifth Profession – that of the Protector, which is what we have sworn and oath to, and what we do. Scrunch, save, go without a few luxuries, work a few details, and save up if you have to. Good kit is fairly priced, and does not have to be prohibitively expensive, you just have to make it a priority. What is prohibitively expensive is failing because you didn’t train for situations you are morally certain may happen to you, which results in the loss of life of an innocent loved one, or the death of someone that didn’t need it. You are the master of your own choices, and by choosing to go about armed in society (whether on or off duty) you have a moral obligation to be sure of your skills – or don’t carry a gun.

Support gear?

So, we got a gun, a spare mag, a good belt, a properly concealed and comfortable holster, and clothes that fit in while not drawing too much attention. What else do you really need? Some form of non-deadly force option. I like OC, and while it has its drawbacks, it fills a special niche – that pesky little niche of between command language and a deadly weapon. I prefer the ASP keychain unit myself, but a lot of people rave about the POM units now available. The ASP uses the excellent Sabre formula and the design works best for me. I do not like the POM for me because of its shape and deployment mechanism. Having said that, a lot of people I trust and know are hard men with a lot of experience dealing with really bad guys, like the POM. I do carry it on special occasions for very specific reasons, so do not discount it.

What about a flashlight? That is up to you. If you do carry one, make sure it is small, bright, reliable, and durable. The Surefire Tactician is about the best actual fighting light for concealment that I have ever handled. I prefer a belt mounted kydex loop rather than pocket carry for EDC.

Medical Gear is another personal choice. There are ways to conceal it, and that may be comfortable to some. If you do choose to, get actual training on how to apply a TQ, how to pack a wound, and how to stop a sucking chest wound. Then go back and refresh your training at least once a year. Watch the expiration date on your med kit, just as the batteries in you lights or optics, and the ammo in your mags. And remember, medical left in the car is not going to help you when you are in church or at a game, or in the mall. By the time you run out to get it, whoever you were trying to save may be dead. If you do not have it on you when the elephant appears, you more than likely will not be going back to get it, at least not in time.

Knives – Again, like all these things, it is a personal choice. Some people want that tactical folder on them. However, a fixed blade is much more reliable and quicker, but where are you putting all this stuff, and still living a somewhat normal life? If you can, great. If not, you know your situation. Look at it with a critical eye, and decide what works best for you. Don’t discount a small Swiss Army knife on your keychain, if you feel naked without a knife – they can solve a lot of problems.

Mindset

I put this last, since most people wouldn’t read the article if it was first. However, it is the most important factor – all the time. Remind yourself every day when you put on your gun, that there is a chance you may very well have to use the cartridge in the chamber in a blood confrontation before you go to bed that night. If you have to do that, it will change several lives forever. We are, rightfully so, held to a higher standard than the criminals that choose to prey upon others and wreak havoc on polite society. Do not be reckless or unjust, but when someone brings the fight to you, give them more violence than they can stand (within the law, of course). You are your own first responder, and the protector of those you love, and the innocent that walk the earth that cannot protect themselves. Act accordingly.